First Impressions of Japan (80)

     Gene finally gets to go ashore.  He is interested in absolutely everything!

A Japanese women on the street in Wakayama

15 Oct. 1945
Beloved,
     In later years I want you to remind me that this birthday marked my Jap beachhead!  We left the ship about 8 on an LCVP [landing craft, vehicle, personnel].  We called at another ship and then went on up the inlet.  The map showed "an old fort" and "a fort" on each side of "the creek" (for size) but I couldn't make out a thing but a small hill.  The factories which we passed (which we'd seen from the ship) are really huge affairs - possible steel mills.  We went up this inlet about a mile and landed at a sort of dock.  I talked to the crew man and he said this wasn't the regular place to land, but some Lt. Col.s wanted off there.  I was the only one not getting off there so decided I could at least stick with the others!  Besides another Major had a map!  Well, these Col.s wanted to go to Osaka 20 odd miles north.  They got a truck to go to Headquarters first and we rode along.  We ended up in the so-called Kobe Headquarters in Wakayama, about 8 miles north of the place where the regular shore landings are made.  It was across the street from an old castle area, now a reservoir.  In places there was a moat about 30 feet wide and a stone wall 20 feet height around a small hillock.  We went into the Hq. and procured more maps and found out where we were and where we wanted to go.  It was plain sailing after that - one street to follow south.  The mess officer Lt. and the other Major and I teamed up.
     The people - what a sight!  Out of thousands of women, I saw maybe 5 that wore skirts!  90% wore a variety of pants and about 10% wore kimonos.  The pants are amazing.  Imagine a cloth of gray in a pattern of squares - a kimono top with full sleeves closed at the wrist with elastic, tucked inside pants which are fairly voluminous at the waist and a very baggy seat, tapering sharply to a jodhpur-like leg below the knee, closed with elastic about the ankle!  The feet encased in white cotton "shoes" with a separate toe and wearing a wooden clog with two cleats.  Some kimonos were worn by elderly men, but most men and boys wore a variety of army uniform.  Did I take pictures!  About 30 black and white.  Mostly of people, too.

Wakayama street cobbler wearing army-like clothing

     Bicycles were everywhere - men and women riding them.  Some kimonos were made of a heavy material like the material in men's suits.  Others were every conceivable figure and material, as were the pants affairs.  I saw several slack suits, dark material and of a state side style.  Some kimonos have a sort of bustle affair - like a flat, oblong sofa pillow, tied to the small of the back with a wide colorful sash!  Babies are carried in a sling on the mother's back and seem perfectly happy.  It is alarming to see the angles their heads take when they sleep!
     The street cars (off limits to troops - no room anyway!) are crowded something remarkable.  People hang on the front and rear cornices.  They have real-sized horses (Gene objected to the small ones the Filipinos had - B [Beth added]), a few hauling long carts.  Any time you go down side streets, and often on the main streets, there is a marked odor of feces!  The honey bucket carts (drawn by hand) are prevalent and unmistakable!  There were quite a few bombed and burned out places - all interspersed with gardens, and lots of wreckage already cleared.  We saw a few modern buildings.  Some people were quite pleasant.  Only a few looked sullen.  Many just looked straight ahead.  Most of the women and girls looked discretely down at the ground.  The youngsters, as anywhere, were quite boisterous.  We came past several batches just returning from school.  They came romping along and shouted "hello" and laughed and smiled.  A few of the shop keepers would bow to us.  In all, it was hardly a conqueror-vanquished relationship!

Wakayama children going home from school

     Well, the Major had some business to attend to, so I stood outside and took pictures of people.  Then we caught a ride about 2 miles on our way (a regular army bus line from HQ. to the billets) and then we started walking.  I certainly laughed at this Major.  He has been overseas just a few months.  He's about 45 - has sons 18 and 21.  Well, he had to look into every place even remotely resembling a shop to try to buy a kimono.  We went slowly, needless to say!
     I spent most of my time out on the street looking and taking pictures.  When you stopped to look, a small crowd would gather.  It you went into a shop (just hole-in-the-wall places) they closed the sliding door and offered you seats and then the parley began.  All these shops were very, very poor - a handful of goods only.  One could do well with our Jap phrase books (Gene wrote before he left the Philippines that he had looked thru the book and decided to learn just 2 phrases - "how much" and "that's too much"! - B).  The natives could turn to the appropriate pages as well as could we!  Prices, of course, were outrageous.  Everyone had rolls of yen notes and weren't interested in selling for money.  They wanted to trade for candy or cigarettes.  The standard exchange is 15 yen for a dollar.  Well, the kids on the street would cluster around offering 10 yen for a pack of cigarettes!  The usual price was 20 or 30 yen.
    
     Gene's letter is so long and enthusiastic (and with so many photos!) that I am going to break it off here and continue it in the next post.